Fairbanks doesn’t wait for green up to begin its summer pastimes. Roads are still unswept of winter gravel and stubborn snow patches cling to trails, yet both are once again filled with cyclists, and shorts-clad walkers and joggers. Convertible cars cruise the roads and outdoor dining is once again available, and more enticing by the day.
It was drizzling and 50 degrees when we joined the fray at Pita Place, which I’d only heard referred to by locals simply as “Falafel.” The line wrapped across the small facade and into the gravel parking lot. Adjacent to the line, empty planter boxes soon to be filled with herbs and flowers hinted at summer’s promise, but the crowd wasn’t there for aesthetics. They were there for falafel.
A stone’s throw from the UAF campus and offering only four menu items, Pita Place is a long-time Fairbanks favorite. It’s known for highly flavored, perfectly textured, affordable offerings with large potions and friendly service, and I’m not sure there’s a better combination of adjectives with respect to a dining establishment. I’d been promised the eatery very much lives up to its Yelp reputation of, “the best falafel in the subarctic.”
I can’t assess that claim exactly, but I’ll admit to being arbitrarily skeptical of Pita Place. I wondered if its favor was a case of exposure effect (developing a preference for the familiar) or even scarcity mindset. Pita Place is one of a small collection of mediterranean cuisine options in town, and it has extremely limited hours, being closed much of the year and currently open only on Saturdays from 11-5 (though it typically expands hours during the summer).
Despite my unfounded skepticism, I naturally have golden retriever tendencies, meaning an inclination to love everyone and everything. So of course, I was swiftly charmed by the excited buzz of the patrons; a giant Alaska Grown decal flexing local pride; and the colorful outdoor seating area with games for kids that defied the drizzle. Finally, when our turn came, I was dazzled by the food.
The menu options are: falafel, either on a pita or a platter. By default it will come with marinated cabbage, lettuce, cucumber, tomato, onion, parsley and pepperoncini. You can choose between a traditional spicy sauce (which we rated 2 out of 5 stars for heat), or no spice. If you want all the veggies and the spicy sauce, you can order an “E squared.” For treats, you can get Turkish coffee, choose between three types of house-made baklava (walnut, coconut or coffee), or pick from a selection of homemade sorbet. Gratifyingly, if you bike or walk, your beverage is free.
At checkout, they serve pitas in those cute little taco holder stands, but once you start eating, it’s both impractical and unlikely to set the thing down. We nodded in agreement between giant mouthfuls how good it was. I tried to be critical, but instead I was just happy to be proven so wrong.
Yes, there was a lot of texture with the soft yet chewy pita, crunchy veggies, creamy and salty labnah, and delicate falafel with crispy exterior. But the amount of flavor was remarkable. It was herbaceous, fresh, succulent, garlicky, with perfect acidity from the pepperoncini.
Once we finished licking our fingers, we shared sips of the strong Turkish coffee with prominent cardamom notes, and traded bits of the walnut baklava, which was flaky on top, saltier than expected and a rare treat.
Sure, scarcity could’ve played a small role in the success of this meal. But damn if it wasn’t delicious anyway. I cannot wait to go back.
Jenny Weis writes for a variety of Alaska nonprofits and causes in between keeping up on Alaska's doughnut scene, sliding on snow, and gawking at cool plants and rocks along local trails.
