My friend once mentioned her wise idea of putting up a folding table at the Glen Alps trailhead parking lot on a sunny summer day with a sign that says, “Ask me about better hikes than Flattop.”
When chatting with tourists, I regularly hear the two hikes they’re told to do are Flattop and Bird Ridge. Both of these hikes are scenic, challenging and considered Anchorage classics. But both come with significant downsides (especially Flattop, from the Glen Alps trailhead), and both are even less enjoyable if our visiting friends aren’t adept with steep terrain.
I am unlikely to sit at a table at Glen Alps, but here is what I tell newer hikers or visitors who don’t live near the mountains about where they should hike when they visit and why.
All of these are easy to find by searching online for complete details (trailhead location, exact elevation gain and mileage, etc.) and any planning notes that aren’t covered here.
Muktuk Marston Memorial Trail (Northeast Anchorage)
Completed in 2022, this new trail has got it all: beautiful views; wildflowers, blueberries, and cranberries; a gentle climb; and even some old mining junk for those who like to geek out on Alaska history.
The trail starts from Arctic Valley Ski area on the northeast side of Anchorage. Park at the sign for the Overlook Trail, stopping a little short of the big parking lots closer to the chalet.
Novice hikers get to enjoy just under four miles (or fewer if they prefer) between Arctic Valley and the point the trail reaches Hunter Pass four miles from the parking lot. Doing an out and back anywhere along this is still rewarding because returning toward Arctic Valley will show off views of Anchorage, the Inlet, and the Alaska Range.
For those wishing to continue, hikers could either venture down onto the South Fork Trailhead (ultimately winding up in Eagle River), or turn up towards Arctic Valley on the Hunter Pass/Rendezvous Ridge Trail for a fun loop of about eight miles with a zesty two thousand-some feet of elevation gain.
Portage Pass Trail (Whittier)
This hike does start with a straight-up mile with 800-feet of elevation gain. I don’t take recommending this lightly, but hear me out because it’s going to be well worth it. This is a four and a half mile trail, but if you wish to hike only two miles, you will still get the excitement of a stunning overlook of Portage Glacier and Portage Lake as your reward for completing that initial climb. And, you’ve already gotten the exciting experience of navigating the single lane Whittier tunnel just by starting. Take your time on that darn first mile (.8 of a mile to be exact), you’ve got this!
After taking in the view from the top (and hopefully perching on a rock and having a snack), you can choose to continue about one more mile downhill. There, take off your socks and shoes and dip your toes in the frigid Portage Lake, pick up chunks of ancient glacier ice and, if you’re like me, continue picnicking. Then, make the two-ish mile journey back up and over the same way you arrived.
Or, you can simply turn around after the first mile having seen a great view and head into Whittier to go eat fish and chips at Swiftwater Cafe. It’s a win either way.
Crow Pass Trail (out and back) – Girdwood or Eagle River
If you already googled this and saw that this is a 22 mile trail you’re probably thinking I’m crazy.
While the entire 22-mile trail is wonderful (going north, anyway), it also has a big bang for your buck as an out-and-back from either side.
From the Girdwood side, turn up Crow Creek Road and drive all the way (seven miles) up to the parking area.
This one, like many Alaska hikes, is going to start immediately with a climb, for three miles. (At least you get switchbacks on this one.) It starts out dense with alder brush and then opens up to be downright gorgeous with mountain views in all directions. There will be a cool waterfall crossing, lots of wild flowers, probably some wildlife somewhere along the ridge, and a view down toward the Girdwood Valley. You’ll see the very popular Crow Pass Cabin once you crest the saddle around mile three. If you keep going just under one more mile, you’ll navigate some low ponds by hopping across some playground-feeling flat rocks, and experience the sights and microclimate of the Raven Glacier.
From the Eagle River side, you’d mostly be hiking the Eagle River Nature Center trail toward Echo Bend, unless you’re in for a bigger mileage day when the ERNC trail turns into the Crow Pass Trail. Regardless, the river valley is beautiful and the trail is gently rolling. It might seem busy right when setting out from the nature center, but by two or so miles out, you’ll get to experience the serenity of what feels like wild Alaska. There, you can remark with your hiking buddies about how cool it is that you can be in a place that is both so beautiful and serene, yet such a short drive from WalMart.
Tips on All Alaska Hiking
If you’re a visitor, novice, or it has just been a while, it’s always worth knowing what you’re in for and assessing your hiking bag before you go.
First, covering any significant elevation gain in June likely means you’ll eventually encounter some snow. If not snow, then mud. It takes a long time for the mountains to melt out, so be prepared for the chance of a snow crossing, postholing, mud sliding or potentially needing to be content with making a snow angel and turning around. July tends to have brushier but drier trails. In August and September you’re most likely to encounter rain, so be prepared for that. Never a bad idea to throw in a light pair of gloves, a hat or headband, or ball cap to shield your face from rain or sun.
Second, a few items I always have in my hiking pack. Bear spray, and the knowledge of how to use it. Some snacks and water. Yes, you can turn around whenever you want, but hiking hunger sneaks up on you – it’s hard work! Getting hangry ruins an otherwise awesome day, so don’t risk it. Have a small snack every 45 minutes to an hour and you’ll feel more energized and also, you will get to eat snacks.
Next, consider finding or borrowing hiking-appropriate footwear, meaning tread is your friend. Opt for a bumpy shoe on the bottom, as opposed to a flat gym shoe if possible, to avoid slipping. Finally, check the weather and tell someone your plan. You may not have cell phone service, so it’s good to have someone keeping tabs.
Finally, you might roll your eyes on this one, but enjoy the journey, not just the destination. Yes, the summits are awesome. But if you’re so focused on getting to see the view from the top, you miss 90% of the joy of hiking. Take your time to identify plants and birds, eat berries, count how many different wildflowers you see, take in the down-valley views and stop to breathe deeply and notice the absence of road noise. Be grateful for the legs and lungs that have carried you this far, however far that may be. That’s what hiking is all about.
Jenny Weis writes for a variety of Alaska nonprofits and causes in between keeping up on Alaska's doughnut scene, sliding on snow, and gawking at cool plants and rocks along local trails.
